A Hollywood Hangout Where the Food Is Actually the Point

LOS ANGELES — I don’t want to be that person who recommends the chicken. Especially not here, at a restaurant you’ll likely wait months or weeks to get into — a bit less, maybe, if you can maintain a healthy working relationship with Resy’s “notify” button.

But all of those people who say you should never get the chicken — because chicken is objectively tedious and unambitious, or generally overpriced and mediocre, or because you can make it so much better at home — probably haven’t had the chicken at Horses.

The dainty Cornish game hen is spatchcocked to reveal so much crisp, lightly browned skin, and rests on a warm, unmade bed of panzanella, juices running across the plate.