The executive chef, Dan Magill, who trained under Daniel Boulud, makes good use of the farm’s raw materials. The white rectangular plates used for most appetizers and some entrees are canvases for his dazzling artistic displays. For instance, a quartet of “deviled eggs,” featuring four egg halves alternately filled with steak tartare and mousses of smoked trout, salmon and a luxuriously creamy foie gras, not only tasted sublime; it also looked as if it belonged in a glass display case.
The Maine lobster salad and a tartare of yellowtail reflected a similar aesthetic. The lobster salad, made up of fresh nuggets of meat cradled in a cup of creamy-ripe avocado slices, was set off by segments of red grapefruit that radiated outward on the plate to form a star. The yellowtail appetizer was just as inspired: its timbale of diced fish, sandwiched between a base of chunky-smooth guacamole and a thin layer of wasabi-saturated tobiko (flying fish roe), lay at the center of a platter dotted with yuzu sauce and adorned with a flower created from gossamer slivers of radish and cucumber. Both dishes were visual triumphs that also happened to taste superb.