First Look at Enzo Rosano’s new Naples-inspired restaurant in Campbell

It was only a matter of time before Enzo Rosano, a southern Italian chef turned Bay Area favorite, made his way to the South Bay.

But it did take a good number of years from his arrival in the U.S. to his arrival in Campbell.

One of nine siblings, Rosano grew up cooking with his mother in a town just outside Naples. He attended culinary school, then worked in Italy and London before heading in 1998 to California, where he was bar manager at Mezza Luna in Half Moon Bay and then, in 2008, opened Acqua Pazza in San Mateo.

Next came his “locanda” eateries based on the Italian concept of hospitality. First there was Locanda Positano in San Carlos in 2011, then Locanda Ravello in Danville, a Positano move to Lafayette, a Locanda Amalfi in Pleasanton and, recently, a Locanda Wine Bar in Livermore.

And now Locanda Sorrento in downtown Campbell. At this location, Rosano is joined by co-owners Annalisa Luongo and Rosa Giordano and chef Mariano Zasso. We stopped by to check it out.

THE LOOK: The azure blues of the Amalfi Coast and the bright lemons of southern Italy dominate, from the logo to the interior design to the charming place settings on the sidewalk tables positioned underneath flower boxes. The interior is divided into three: a large casual space with the bar; white-tablecloth seating in the room beyond; and a private room with a chef’s table for 10.

THE VIBE: Friendly and very Italian, with a staff made up largely of relatives, friends of relatives and Neapolitan newcomers trained in the hospitality business. As bar manager Jon Milans puts it, “You can’t throw a lemon around here without hitting someone from Napoli.”

THE FOOD: The menu is a nicely curated mix of signature recipes from matriarch Carmella Rosano, now 82, along with seafood specialties, house-made pasta and gnocchi, shareable pizzas and appetizers, and salads.

The matriarch’s influence shows up in every menu category. Under antipasti you’ll find the Polpette della Mamma ($15), meatballs made with Wagyu beef. Mamma Carmela’s Lasagna ($23) leads the primi list. And then there’s her recipe for Eggplant Parmigiana ($21) under secondi.

Enzo’s Favorite Branzino ($28) brings a platter with two panko-breaded sea-bass fillets lightly sauteed and drizzled with a lemon vinaigrette, served with tricolor cauliflower. The Linguine del Golfo ($25) features clams and prawns. And on this day, pistachios starred in the mortadella-draped Pizza Oro Verde with pistachio crema ($20) and in the Cheesecake del Giorno ($10).

THE SIPS: Not surprisingly, Aperol, Campari and citrus play prominent roles on the cocktail menu. “The Space Between Clouds” ($14) turns Aperol, Pisco, lemon, lime and egg white into a colorful, ethereal drink. “The Wrong Way” ($13) brings together Campari, Antica sweet vermouth, prosecco and orange bitters. The extensive list of red and white wines is divided into Italian and New World. There are also a few beers on tap.

DON’T MISS: The seafood entrees, especially during this Dungeness crab season. Rosano says he treks to Half Moon Bay to pick up fresh crab for the current specials, Cioppino with Crab ($38) and Fettuccine with Crab and Champagne ($33).

GOOD TO KNOW: Mamma Carmela will arrive in the States in February for a three-month visit and will head straight to the family’s Locanda restaurants — to the delight of customers. “When Mamma Carmela comes, it’s showtime,” Enzo says. “She’s still the queen in the kitchen.”

DETAILS: On Friday, Saturday and Sunday, lunch is served from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. On Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, dinner is served from 4 to 10 p.m. There is a small parking lot behind the restaurant. 76 E. Campbell Ave. at South Fourth Street, Campbell. www.locandasorrento.com