KYU, an Eclectic Miami Transplant, Opens in NoHo
Reversing a trend, a Miami restaurant is opening in New York. Since 2016, KYU (pronounced “cue”), in the Wynwood neighborhood of Miami, has been a destination, offering an eclectic, strongly Asian-leaning menu of often wood-fired specialties served in a high-decibel industrial setting. Appetites are vigorously satisfied; creature comforts less so. In New York, there are touches of luxury in the generous space that housed Bobby Flay’s Gato, with dramatic lighting and a glittering sweep of brass mesh to set off the lounge area. Alan Omsky and Jordan Sayfie, the founders, have joined with an English hospitality company, Reuben Brothers, for this expansion of the brand. (There’s already an offshoot in Mexico City, and other locations are in the pipeline.) Its signature is Japanese yakiniku grilling, which will be handled in an open kitchen with a chef’s table by Chris Arellanes, who worked at Per Se and Eleven Madison Park. Smoked Wagyu brisket, whole roasted cauliflower, six-hour smoked short ribs and a towering coconut cake are coming to New York, along with a newly conceived wood-fired bass with fermented brussels sprouts and dashi, and charred sunchokes with Parmesan cream and togarashi lime. The restaurant’s Miami cocktails, like the Wynwood Mule made with house-smoked pineapple, and the spicy shiso sour fueled with Thai chile tincture, are also traveling north. (Opens Wednesday)
324 Lafayette Street (Houston Street), 929-448-5188, kyurestaurants.com.
One quirky corner building in the heart of the meatpacking district has housed many dining venues. The latest is this survey of ways to dress a mussel. Everyday marinière? Perhaps not when cacio e pepe, condensed milk with wasabi, and peanut butter are some of the options. There are raw bar selections with crudos and ceviches front and center, hand roll concoctions, soups like Brazilian moqueca, a raviolo with egg yolk and caviar, creamy spinach risotto, and a Wagyu filet in cacio e pepe sauce served with a lobster tail in bisque. The Italian touches are frequent. (The executive chef, Gianmaria Sapia, is from Savona, Italy.) Handblown glass lights casting wavy impressions on mirrored walls convey a deep sea atmosphere. (Wednesday)
1 Little West 12th Street (Hudson Street), 212-970-1818, molluscanyc.com.
After some enterprising ventures in Latin America, Maurizio DeRosa, a former partner in Sushi Nakazawa, is back in New York with this ode to Southern Italy that taps the region’s aristocratic traditions. In addition to some familiar specialties like meatballs and arancini, there is an alluring collection of stuffed, gratinéed and simmered vegetables and timbales. Pasta dishes veer from the expected, tossed with the likes of swordfish and fried eggplant. The wine list features Southern Italy often with bottlings of native grapes. (Friday)
284 Grand Street (Roebling Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 845-614-3413, locandaborboni.com.