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Pao by Paul Qui Restaurant Review:
Argentine impresario, hotelier and developer Alan Faena brought his eponymous brand to Miami Beach, and food and entertainment are the property’s top priority and attraction. Chef Paul Qui came on board for his first venture outside of Texas, and he has created an opulent menu as lavish as the restaurant’s décor, which includes a golden dome helmed by a matching unicorn that’s half anatomical on one side. You get what you pay for — the feeling of being somewhere far away, like the French Riviera — in addition to an elevated dining experience. The omakase-style menu priced at $175 might be less expensive than ordering à la carte. If you want to go the latter route, make sure it includes the tongue-in-cheek Unicorn, a sea urchin shell full of its offspring with grilled sweet corn pudding, kalamansi, chile de arbol and saké aïoli. East Side King fried chicken with sweet chili and roasted banana ketchup and diver scallops with green garbanzo and blood sausage are edible proof of Qui’s skills. Rice is king, with four distinct varieties as different as wild mushroom Koshihikari with aïoli, pickled onions and bitter greens or ginger-jasmine with pork adobo, green mango pico and a fried duck egg on top. Either pair beautifully with the 72-hour Wagyu beef accompanied by cloud-like potato purée. If you see sushi on the tables around you, that’s because there’s a secret menu. A diverse and hand-picked saké and wine list presents a broad range of grain and grape varietals. Leave room for dessert, a tough call between the sweet corn ice cream sando with goat milk Gouda and the cashew pie with brown butter gastrique and kurozato black sugar ice cream.