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Not much has changed at Spiga since the pretty, romantic, slightly secluded Italian trattoria opened more than a decade ago. The veteran chef and crew are still baking the breads and foccacias, rolling out pasta doughs, and preparing desserts on the premises. The result is fresh, uncomplicated, moderately priced Italian cuisine. Don’t miss the quadretti with portobello mushrooms, tomatoes, truffle oil, and thin shavings of Parmesan; grouper baked in béchamel; and a charbroiled bone-in lamb steak cut from the leg, marinated in olive oil with garlic and rosemary, and gloriously infused with full meaty, slightly gamy flavor. A voluptuously creamy ricotta cheesecake with strawberry sauce is the recommended dessert. The Italy-happy wine list is concise, the service is experienced, and ambiance is unbeatable, especially on the wraparound porch. Familiarity can sometimes breed contempt, but at Spiga, it brings a sense of contentment and gratitude.