Italian immigrant John Sasso was another alumnus of Lombardi’s. In 1929, Sasso ventured out on his own with his eponymous joint on Sullivan Street. Much has changed since then: Sasso lost his lease and moved his coal-fired brick oven to Bleecker Street. In the ’50s, he sold the business to the Vesce family. The pizza , however, is just as good as it has always been. Yes, the line is frequently filled with tourists, but locals are just as entranced by the history — and the product. It’s the epitome of the New York pie. A thin, springy crust is topped by a layer of tangy sauce and a good serving of mozzarella. Small and large pies — no slices — are finished with your choice of standard accoutrements: sliced meatballs, pepperoni, ground sausage, onions, anchovies. John’s isn’t about local greens or rare, artisanal cheese. Here, it’s all about honoring tradition with simple, classic pies.