THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Nix Restaurant Review:
Chef John Fraser makes vegetables sing at his all-vegetarian Nix. This sexy Greenwich Village restaurant gets its name from the 1893 Supreme Court decision, Nix v. Hedden, which ruled that tomatoes were a vegetable and thus subject to a veg-specific import tax. Fraser and his chef-collaborator Nicolas Farias cook dishes like shiitake mushrooms over polenta and charred asparagus with a generous pile of morels — inspired, elegant and tasty. There are plenty of vegan options, too, like ribbons of jícama served with Fresno chili and vibrant blood oranges. Vegetarian doesn’t necessarily entail healthy, and with selections such as deep fried, airy bread made with Yukon potatoes and fried cauliflower buns, that’s a good thing. Innovative cocktails, house-made sodas and an affordable, eclectic wine list help lighten the serious vibe, as does a giant spear of baked honeyed pineapple for dessert, topped with a cloud of coconut whipped cream.