THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tallulah Restaurant Review:
Chef Troy Graves (ex-Meritage Café & Wine Bar) is a master of low-key elegance at this simple-seeming, sconce-lit Lincoln Square storefront from Matt Fisher. The neighborhood appeal can be deceptive, however, with updated American dishes that (sometimes) command more attention than the setting would suggest. Meals most certainly should start with luxurious, fiery-enough Maine lobster and deviled eggs or fork-tender bulgogi pork belly with kimchi. Entrées are more of a mixed bag, the grilled prawns visually striking alongside a stuffed baby pumpkin with chanterelles, Brussels sprouts and cipollini onions. But less-than-tender oxtail and skate wing with curry-scented gnocchi fail to excite. Chai crème brûlée is a pleasing departure from the norm. The Sunday brunch is flush with atypical a.m. eats, like a duck confit omelet or braised rabbit skillet. However, all of this will be a mute point in early October 2009, when the restaurant morphs into LM Le Restaurant with Bradford Phillips (Blackbird, Ristorante We) in the kitchen.