Flying in on a four-seat propeller plane, you see the course isn't located on an island so much as it is the island. The layout tidily leaves space for the compound buildings, a lagoon and the runway, which hugs the ocean before finishing behind the 15th green. The decorative palm trees dotting the runway create a unique turbulence that our pilot said makes it the most difficult landing in the area. Waiting for us, a man in camouflage pants whose vest says "Security." Wearing a pink shirt, my cleanest shorts and a smile, I and my slightly better-dressed wife can't look like much of a threat. Despite our arrangements, he speaks to us as a guard, not a greeter. He's brought two gas golf carts and waits until we're following him to get on his radio.